Misc Kits page マルシン製(MARUSHIN) Walther PPK/S MODEL KIT (HEAVY WEIGHT)
Here’s the video: PPK/S video
Marushin makes a great variety of modelgun kits; among them is the ppk/s.
This model is available in (at least) 7 versions: the abs plastic( trade marked Walther) light weight version, the abs plastic trade marked light weight version (chrome), the non trade marked abs light weight, the non trade marked abs light weight (chrome), the heavy weight trade marked version, the non trade marked heavy weight and finally, the pp length slide was added to make the pp kit!
These are also available in Japan as a finished modelgun, however, due to importation rules, these are hard to import with out cooperation from the importer, trademark removal etc.
The kit version of course has somewhat rough mold lines requiring files and sandpaper along with a screw driver, a small hammer, tweezers and needle nose pliers for assembly.
First of all, the instructions are in Japanese! Although it is not truly a problem, because the instructions are well illustrated and to the point.
Being that the kit instructions are of course, in Japanese, the illustrations had to suffice.
I had very little trouble assembling the kit, however, the springs and the pin locations have to observed very carefully, so everything is placed where it is supposed to be.
The illustrations help in this respect, by placing the springs/pins next to the scale illustrations of the springs/pins, you have a very good guide to the proper placement. the kit can be assembled in about an hour or so, depending on the skills of the modeler and the functionality desired!
Special care should be taken to ensure that undue force is not used while assembling this or any of these modelguns. As they are constructed of fairly weak zinc/plastic due to Japanese laws regarding model gun construction materials.
The term Heavy Weight refers to the introduction of zinc powder into the ABS resin, creating an very dense heavy plastic. actually, it is also cool to the touch. possibly, it might actually make a stronger plastic.
1.well...not really hard but kind of difficult,.... The double action spring..@k$%*^! hard to handle little spring...
2. The main spring for the trigger again, fairly difficult to get this into place, using the end of the needle file handle helped to get this part into its proper place though...
3. Putting the hammer spring in upside down.....there is a small end to this spring...oops!
4. Clearance issues in the hammer spring “tunnel.” minor file work is needed in this area.
5. The double action screws...if you end up with a non-functioning double action after assembly...slightly loosen these to reduce the drag on the sear.
6. The slide to barrel there is a slight interference fit that needs to be adjusted with a file so final assembly can occur.
7. Burrs on the magazine body need to be carefully scraped off even so, there seems to be some drag on the magazine when it is removed.
8. And finally, the ejector/last shot hold open (slide stop) this adjustment is very tricky, as you can break this component easily either you get the slide locked open after you “shoot” your last shot, or you don’t - it’s just a matter of adjustment!
The slide travel is smooth,
with a good solid sound when the action is cycled. The markings differ from the
real gun though, having “Marushin” in the “Walther banner" on the grips and the
slide. (Marushin evidently does not currently have the rights for the Walther trade mark)
other wise the slide markings are “on".
The instructions are well illustrated in this respect, basically, the cartridges are prepared by loading them, by first unscrewing the cartridges at the separation line near the bottom of the “cartridge” note the positions of the parts.
This is very important , as in some of these models, the parts positions are crucial for the proper function of the model guns. The 5mm caps are slightly hard to handle compared to the 7mm caps but not that difficult.
The “piston” is placed in the main cartridge body first, followed by the 5mm cap “face down” (i.e. powder side) towards the pin on the cartridge bottom, the tan “rod” that is in the bag with the cartridges, is the cap tool the sort side is used to set the cap depth by placing the rod against the cap and pushing the cap into the body until the rod bottoms out on the cartridge body.
This distance is important, as the cap adds friction when the piston is pushed back into the cartridge by the firing pin.
Then the base of the cartridge screwed on tightly-making sure that the base parts do not shift ( the “O” ring and the “primer” piece) then, they are ready for loading into the magazine.
The generated recoil is very light, not much more than an a .22 short! also, the sound of the caps is very quiet, as the video actually amplifies the sound generated by the little 5mm cap! the slight sparks from the ejection port and the muzzle, come from the Marushin brand caps.
? powder mixed into the phosphorus creating the sparks. There is
also smoke.....so the firing sequence of an real gun is simulated fairly
very important the modelguns biggest challenge, is to keep the model and the cartridges clean! Especially the marushin type cartridges, as the cap moves with the "piston" if any residue of the previous firing is present, the "piston" and the cap "hang up" in the cartridge causing misfires and faulty feeding.
Usually, I clean my cartridges after "shooting" them and before reloading them.
Also, the phosphorus residue is quite corrosive, if left for long periods (even over night!) the steel parts will rust and the cartridges will "weld" themselves together! defying attempts to unscrew the bases leading to cartridge damage. If this occurs, try soaking the cartridges in vinegar for a few hours, as this helps to loosen up the corrosion.
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