The MGC 製 Detonics .45:
The MGC Detonics "Combat Master" .45 is a nice modelgun, it replicates the original Detonics .45 fairly faithfully.
The MGC Detonics combat master was originally available from MGC with differing finishes: black, simulated blue, two tone "sliver frame slide blue" and Chrome. And the Combat Master in the HW version is still available from the "NEW MGC."
The original pre-Taito MGC version used the CP style of .45 cartridges, but these are actually closer to .40 S&W in diameter than the .45 ACP.
My MGC Detonics .45
My MGC Detonics is the Chrome version, which at first, I found that I didn't like the Chrome look but now, it's "growing on me" as it is distinctive looking especially compared to my other modelguns.
When I received this modelgun, It came with a Detonics pistol "rug" I believe that maybe this pistol "rug" is a Bond Shop item (although there is no reference to the Bond Shop on it anywhere.)
Also, the hammer refused to drop when I pulled the trigger, which of course, made me think that maybe the disconnector was damaged or? the problem strangely was traced to the trigger "shoe" the rear lower corner of the trigger "shoe" was touching the magazine catch just enough, so the sear could not release the hammer.
So, I filed on the trigger shoe just enough to clear the magazine catch and allow the sear to rotate out of the hammer "bents" and allow the hammer to drop properly when the trigger was pulled.
What I find interesting, is why would the employees at MGC, let this modelgun out of the factory with a bad trigger? unless, It wasn't a factory assembled modelgun, but it was imported as a model kit. Then perhaps, that would explain the trigger "problem." But, why would it have an optional Bond Shop pistol "rug" along with it?
I at first noticed cracks on the frame (next to the hammer above the thumb safety) and then I noticed one on the slide (above the extractor) not knowing the properties of ABS at the time, I used "super glue" to repair them instead of using ABS cement. But so far, no other cracks have yet appeared.
Evidently, by the time that MGC had manufactured this modelgun, Detonics was no longer listed as a trade name here in the U.S. so my MGC "Detonics" still has Detonics .45 engraved into the slide and Detonics .45 Seattle. Wa MGC 81582 however, the words Combat Master are missing from the slide just under Detonics .45 and a very small "Japan" engraved on the frame.
Standard MGC made "GM 45" magazines intended for the CP cartridges will fit and function in this model, which is nice for reloading practice and tactical training.
The magazines are made out of stamped, spot welded and blued steel with Detonics .45 A.C.P. stamped on the base plate just like the original magazines.
A surprising fact is that the magazine (even though it's much shorter than the standard Government model) still holds 7 rounds of ".45 acp" just like the real Detonics! this is achieved by having a shortened magazine follower.
In fact, a tab on the follower protrudes out the notch in the magazine base plate, this indicated that there is 7 rounds in the magazine.
The stocks: (grips)
Brown plastic stocks came from the MGC factory in this case, they don't look too bad compared to the other modelgun grips that I have seen..
In this case, the weight plates aren't part of the grip assembly this time, they are located just under the grips in the frame recesses.
As for the barrel, it is a "conned type" and it is a "bushing less" design I.E. the muzzle is as large as the slide opening, which eliminates the need for the barrel bushing.
The finish on the barrel surprised me as it was painted sliver! I would have thought that MGC would have chrome plated it..
The recoil spring ASSY:
The fact that the barrel is a conned bushing less type means that the traditional bushing support for the recoil spring "plug" is not present also, the shortened slide ASSY reduces the overall room for the recoil spring so the designer of the Detonics came up with a solution, use a guide rod and three recoil springs.
MGC reproduced this design beautifully.
The cartridges: CP/HW
The original cartridges are the 11x28CP type, these are very good cartridges as long as they are kept clean (as should all of the modelgun cartridge types) also, the "caps" that are used as the seal for the piston should be as in good of condition as can be used, preferably the originally supplied yellow/gold piston seals should be used, these resemble "caps" with no powder and small holes in the middle of the "cap" although, because the majority of these modelguns that where imported into the U.S. where imported with out the cartridges and accessories these piston seals are often missing.
Also, the seals are missing due to peoples misunderstanding of what the " already fired caps" where for! The re-produced (in English) instructions from the collectors armory where often unclear as to where you placed and what you did with the " already fired yellow/gold caps"
These cartridges are not like the current "real size" .45 cartridges that are available from Taito, ("the new MGC") Tanaka and Hudson, these "real size" cartridges are intended for the Thompson modelguns(1921 and the M1A1) and they will not work in place of the 11x28 CP cartridges as they are larger in diameter.
As good as the CP style of piston was, it had some problems that needed to be addressed.
1. The used cap "seal" was hard to put on the small piston. (especially the 5mm!)
2.The seal often split or ruptured due to the gas pressures loosing gas pressure and causing misfires .
3. The assembly of the cartridge was tedious as you had to find/select a good used cap, punch a small hole in it's center (with the supplied punch if the cap didn't have one already) and then place it onto the piston.
So, the CP style of piston was later replaced by the HW piston, which was a considerable improvement over the used cap as it featured an O-ring as the piston seal.
Which of course, seals the gas pressure in considerably better than the old used cap "seal" ever could and this allowed the slides, bolts etc to become heavier (I.E. Heavy Weight) as the cartridges became more efficient .
The newer Taito ( the new MGC) HW version uses the center fire system, it's basically like a real firearm, it uses a firing pin in the breach block that hits the "primer" and causes the primer to drive the cap into the piston to fire it.
The earlier MGC Detonics used the side-fire style of cartridge, this "firing pin" system hits the cartridge next to the rim (like a rim-fire .22) and drives the whole cartridge forwards and the cap into the piston.
This design is only acceptable when the conditions are perfect. As the weight of the cartridge and the friction (from it touching the barrel chamber) must be balanced out by a strong hammer spring.
The cartridges have to be assembled with care for the system to work as it was designed.
Firing the MGC Detonics:
I loaded/prepared several cartridges using Marushin caps (these caps really aren't my favorite due to the sparks that they produce...But, they work well) I also loaded some cartridges with the MGC (Model Gun Caps) brand caps.
I used the CP piston(s), as the more efficient HW piston(s) might cause damage to the lighter ABS components.
I first loaded the original MGC Detonics magazine and a (MGC) made magazine for a GM .45 series pistol and I then set up the camera for the video.
The first magazine had 1 misfire and one failure to eject properly.
The next magazine had 3 miss feeds and 2 jams.
The third magazine had 2 misfires and a strange jam...The magazine follower somehow became stuck on the slide stop! I thought that it was strange to have the magazine stuck in the gun...Hmmm, how did this happen?
The forth magazine had 1 failure to eject and it jammed after the next round...I then discovered that the slide stop was sticking up slightly out of the frame! and the magazine was once again stuck in the magazine well! somehow, the slide stop "walks" out of the frame during firing causing the magazine follower to rise up too far and get caught up on the slide stop projection...
The slide stop has an area at the rear that has a small indent for the plunger/spring assembly. This indent needs to be slightly deepened and very slightly chamfered, so the slide stop has some side to side control. This should prevent the slide stop from moving on it's own.
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